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Tutti punti di vista che alterano sicuramente la verità, sempre ammesso ce ne sia una.
Ma partiamo per gradi: tradizionalmente il vino in Italia si è sempre fatto per blend. Ma questa parola “chic” non rende il concetto.
Nazionalmente si è sempre prodotto vino da assemblaggio di uve, ma non per una scelta stilistica. Semplicemente perché l’Italia è sempre stato un paese agricolo, di sussistenza, dove la necessità era riuscire a produrre più uva possibile e quindi quanto più vino.
Lo dimostrano anche alcuni nomi di denominazioni, come per esempio Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera DOC, che richiama l’organizzazione di masserie lucerine per conto terzi di una volta. Agricoltori che non avevano le necessarie attrezzature, portavano nelle masserie le proprie uve. Lì venivano pigiate e, velocemente, trasportate nei tini di fermentazione (cacc’e mmitte). Dopo di che il vino nuovo veniva prelevato e altri piccoli proprietari, a ruota, portavano le proprie uve negli stessi contenitori per la pressatura e così via. Doveva essere tutto molto veloce per permettere un agile flusso di viticoltori, e questo, vi lascio immaginare, non permetteva alla scelta di varietà d’uva di essere in cima alle priorità.
Diamo invece un occhio a cosa è successo storicamente dai cugini
Francia, XIV secolo. La Borgogna si trova sotto la guida del duca Filippo l’Ardito. Il potere economico ed ecclesiastico trova dimora più qui che nella nostra penisola. La sede papale era stata da poco trasferita da Roma ad Avignone e questo spostò, e non di poco, gli equilibri.
I papi avignonesi avevano una grande predilezione per il vino della poco più a nord Beaune, tanto da far sì che nel 1364 venne emanata una bolla che impediva che il vino di Beaune venisse mandato a Roma.
Tutto questo portò il duca ad emanare un bando: fece spiantare tutte le uve rosse (presumibilmente Gamay) da Beaune che non fosse il “norien” (vi dice qualcosa?).
Da questo si evince quanto intrinsecamente il mono vitigno sia radicato nella loro tradizione, almeno in molte zone. Oltre ad un assaggio di quanto la chiesa abbia influenzato l’ampelografia e l’enocultura.
Un varietale, un carattere
Sulle orme di questa grande cultura enologica che porta il nome di Francia, molti paesi produttori di vino di qualità, e non solo, ne hanno seguito le orme. Basti pensare che il Merlot è il terzo vitigno per superficie vitata mondiale, seguito dalla Grenache. In Italia addirittura al quinto posto il merlot.
E che dire dell’ormai non più recente fenomeno della California, Napa Valley, dove la parte del leone la fa il Cabernet Sauvignon per i rossi e lo Chardonnay per i bianchi.
Dal canto nostro, anche noi abbiamo seguito le domande del mercato, e quindi di riflesso le orme francesi. Basti pensare all’areale bolgherese, sempre più la Bordeaux italiana, o Cortona, vocatissimo areale Aretino che offre meravigliose espressioni di Syrah e Viogner, un po’ come nel Rodano del Nord.
Ma il mercato non si ferma qui
Al di là della cultivar varietale, il mercato fa leva su di un altro concetto fondamentale: il terroir.
Di cosa stiamo parlando: “semplicemente” della sinergia che si crea tra il luogo, il suo clima (o micro-clima), l’uva (o le uve) e la tradizione, ovvero la mano dell’uomo. Tutto questo andrà a creare un’armonia riconoscibile e riconducibile ad un territorio di elezione.
Spesso frainteso con significati prettamente rivolti all’aspetto geologico, poiché i vini di queste qualità vengono quasi sempre etichettati con il nome della zona di provenienza piuttosto che l’uva di produzione. Il terroir è il concetto predominante sul mercato enologico.
Ecco che il pinot nero, nelle complesse colline giurassiche della Côte d’Or, vinificato secondo i crismi della tradizione borgognona ha dato, e continua a dare, risultati che lo hanno portano ad oggi sulla vetta dei mercati mondiali. Che dire della fredda e ripida Mosella, con le sue vendemmie eroiche e le vinificazioni in riduzione per conservare un varietale fresco e complesso. Come non citare la continentale Alsazia, con le sue estati soleggiate e le maturazioni importanti, con la curiosa scelta di mettere in evidenza la varietà in etichetta piuttosto che la zona di provenienza.
Italia, quale strada?
Non sta certo me a dirlo, ma a dati alla mano l’Italia vanta alcuni primati già peculiari di per sé:
- 600 varietà di viti registrate nel registro nazionale della varietà delle viti;
- 4 diversi tipi di clima: appenninico, alpino, continentale e mediterraneo;
- 56.213 tipologie di invertebrati (il 97,8% del totale della fauna).
Questi elementi sono già sufficienti a creare una base veramente solida per poter dar vita ad un vino con un’identità propria. Ma nei pilastri del terroir non ho citato ancora una cosa: l’uomo. La tradizione.
Se avessimo dei dubbi a pensare che l’Italia sia tradizionalmente un paese produttore di vino di qualità, proviamo a ricordare quale terra i Greci chiamavano “Enotria”. O dove si trovavano gli Etruschi, cosa hanno fatto e in che anni.
Presi questi elementi, direi che l’Italia deve solo trovare la sua dimensione, imparare dalle proprie tradizioni, ma aggiungendo quel bagaglio di consapevolezza moderna per poter produrre un grande vino, che esuli dagli schemi moderni e che possa diventare un esempio di come un Paese con così tante potenzialità abbia tutte le carte in regola per proporre un vino inarrivabile per peculiarità rispetto a quelli prodotti altrove. Più o meno buono, ma diverso.
Difficilmente meno buono.
Perché in fondo, con 600 varietà di uve, perché ridursi a produrre Merlot internazionali?
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